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Beumer & Lutum Bäckerei
This place deals only in fresh, organic and delicious substances. It’s a vegetarian’s dream, with a salad bar bursting with colour, vitality and vitamins. Definitely try the veggie burger served every Friday with homemade barbeque sauce (meat versions also available). We can’t resist the organic, alcohol-free Caipirinha - a super healthy indulgence. With a non-smoking interior, fresh bread baked daily and a lush outdoor terrace we say, ‘Healthy eating … ahoy!’ Cuvrystr. 22, U-Bhf Schlesisches Tor, Tel 6123 119, www.beumer-lutum.de, Mon-Fri 7:00-18:30, Sat 7:00-13:30, lunch 2- 5 euros, cash only; also in Zossener Str. 34, U-Bhf Gneisenaustr., Mon-Fri 7:00-19:00, Sat
7:00-16:00, cash only
Café im Literaturhaus Wintergarten
A charming garden full of birds and blooms, an attractive wrought-iron patio, and a tasteful interior are the three choices for resting your weary feet and enjoying an afternoon tea. You’ll pay for the ambience, of course, but relaxing alongside the roses, you certainly won’t mind. Come late in the afternoon to attend a post-nosh novel reading, or experience culture vicariously by browsing the cute bookshop. Fasanenstr. 23, U-Bhf Uhlandstr., Tel 882 5414. Daily 9:00-1:00.www.literaturhaus-berlin.de
Click here to find Café im Literaturhaus Wintergarten on the map
Café Richter
Of the neighborhood’s many wannabe-Kaiserreich cafes, this one not only fulfills the gemütlich ideal, with charming décor, delicious baked-on-premises pastries, and plenty of outdoor seating for hot days, but also leaves your wallet intact. Take a seat alongside the ladies-who-lunch and sample an array of wellpriced goodies, such as the Schwedenschnitte, a fruit tart whose flaky, rich crust dissolves perfectly into the tangy, fresh, and delightfully gelatin-free sour cherries in the middle. Giesebrechtstr. 22, S-Bhf Charlottenburg or U-Bhf Adenauerplatz, Tel 324 3722, Mon-Sat 7:00-20:00, Sun 8:30-20:00, pastries 1-4 euros, breakfast 2.50-8 euros, cash only
Einhorn 2
Berlin’s go-to eatery for a flavorful, satisfying vegetarian lunch, with a buffet selection of antipasti, grilled veggies, and treats like lentils with goat cheese, or baked tofu and aubergines. All is priced by weight (1.50 euros for 100 grams), except for daily specials like broccoli-chili soup or samosa with mango sauce. Now the only thing missing is air-conditioning. Mommsenstr. 2, S-Bhf Savignyplatz or U-Bhf Uhlandstr., Tel 8814241, Mon-Fri 10:00-17:00, lunch 2-7 euros, cash only
Feinbäckerei
This German restaurant (a former bakery), with its dark wood decor and vintage tiled oven from 1905, oozes old-fashioned charm. Specializing in Swabian food, it serves up huge portions of Maultaschen and cheese Spätzle at a very fine price. For big appetites, there’s the schnitzel Wiener Art and the Wiener Schnitzel (9 and 14.50 euros, respectively) served with pan-fried potatoes and a side salad. For even bigger appetites - or to be shared between two beer-swilling friends - there’s also a great combo platter, where heaps of sauerkraut surround a generous ‘best of’ the menu. Vorbergstr. 2, U-Bhf Kleistpark, Tel 8149 4240, www.feinbaeck.de, daily 12:00-1:00, main courses 5.50-14.50 euros, EC accepted
Fellas
This café near the Gethsame church serves unexpectedly delicious meals such as well-dressed, wholesome salads (rocket with beef, dry tomatoes, Parmesan and truffle oil), classics (their Wiener Schnitzel with Kartoffelsalat is a bestseller) and a weekly-changing selection of fish, pasta and well-executed roasts (chorizo-stuffed corn-fed chicken with polenta and grilled vegetables). It’s also a gay bar, but don’t feel shy, the clientele is as mixed as the food is recommendable and affordable, turning the place into a well-frequented canteen for food-loving locals, irrespective of age, sex or social class. Great à la carte breakfasts, too, and generous happy hours (18:00-20:00, or after 21:00 on the weekend). Stargarder Str. 3, S+U-Bhf Schönhauser Allee, Tel 4679 6314, www.fellasberlin.de, daily 10:00-late (kitchen open until midnight), main courses 7-14 euros, cash only
Gambrinus
Traditional, hearty Berlin specialities in a central, pub-like atmosphere. Linienstraße 133, Mitte, Tel 030 282 60 43, Mon-Sat noon-4am, Sun 15:00 to 4am, www.gambrinus-berlin-mitte.de
Gugelhof
No offence, but as far as German cuisine is concerned, we all know that the closer to France you get, the better the food, and the Alsatian Gugelhof is living proof. For more than 10 years now, this busy brasserie has been serving the best Flammkuchen (try the fresh salmon one!), fondue or choucroute and other traditional (mostly meaty) delights from both sides of the Rhine to a mixed crowd of internationals and Berliners, VIPs and locals. The wine and dessert selections are also flawless. Good classics never go out of style. We love it! Knaackstr. 37, U-Bhf Senefelderplatz, Tel 442 9229, www.gugelhof.de, Mon- Fri 16:00-late (kitchen open until 23:30), Sat-Sun 10:00-late, weekend breakfast 10:00-16:00, main courses 6:80-19 euros, credit cards accepted
H.H. Müller
Located in the old Kreuzberg transformer station, this renovated power factory has oodles of innovative style and an exquisite menu to match. Gourmet chef Matthais Gleiss takes fresh fish and veal filetsand transforms them into something god-like for your palatial pleasure (like delicious grilled Zander with wasabi lentils). The delicate and sumptuous flavours combine to create a surprising and heavenly eating experience. Both inside and out, the surroundings are atmospheric, relaxing and beautiful. For a special occasion, this place will spark off an unforgettable evening. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 20, U-Bhf Schönleinstr., www.hhmüller.com/www.umspannwerk-kreuzberg.de, daily 18:00-late, main courses 17-25 euros, credit cards accepted Tel 6956 4292
Hartmanns
Hailed as neue deutsche Küche, this elegant nook that opened last February serves up a mouth-watering fusion of European flavours laced with a German sensibility. Local staples such as boiled cauliflower or Mohnkuchen have been reinvented into creations like nutty and satisfying smoked-cauliflower purée, accompanying several meat mains, or light, creamy poppyseed mousse with mint gelée for dessert. Chef Stefan Hartmann’s exquisite combinations are just irresistible. Crisp white walls miraculously make the cellar feel airy and spacious, while outdoor seating on a leafy patio alongside the well-dressed clientele will delight on warmer nights./AP Fichtestr. 31, U-Bhf Südstern, Tel 6120 1003, www.hartmanns-restaurant.de, Mon-Sat 18:00-24:00, three six-course menus 37-58 euros, á la carte main courses 24 euros, credit cards accepted
Henne - Alt Berliner Wirtshaus
There’s only one thing on the menu at this quirky, vintage Berliner eatery and that’s Milchmasthähnchen - delicious free-range chicken. The bird’s special diet produces a rich, succulent texture, spit-roasted to crispy perfection. The warm, oven-heated restaurant spills out in summer onto a jam-packed terrace shaded by high deciduous trees. This place is always busy, so book in advance and be prepared to eat with your hands.
Cutlery not included! Leuschnerdamm 25, U-Bhf Moritzplatz/Kottbusser Tor, Tel 6147 730, www.henne-berlin.de, Tue-Sun 19:00-late, half chicken 6.50 euros, salad 3 euros, credit cards accepted
Click here to find Henne - Alt Berliner Wirtshaus on the map
Kuchen-Kaiser
Great German food since 1866, now also with an international twist. Weekly/ daily specials, and a Sunday brunch. Beer garden too. Oranienplatz 11-13, Kreuzberg. Tel 030 614 02 697. Daily from 9:00, www.kuchenkaiser.de
Manzini
Step back into a bygone era of polished brass, starched napkins, uniformed waiters, upholstered benches and semi-private booths, and join West Berlin cultural elites before catching a show at the Haus der Berliner Festspiele just up the road. The excellent continental classics with Italian and Austrian touches range from a tuna or egg-sardine or a most satisfying club sandwich,to luscious saffron-spinach and scampi risotto to an extravagant, expertly prepared Wiener Schnitzel. Also perfect for Kaffe and Kuchen and breakfast. Ludwigkirchstr 11, U-Bhf Spichernstr., Tel 885 7820, www.manzini.de, daily 8:00-2:00, main courses 4-20 euros, credit cards accepted
Melrose Grill
If you’re not in the mood for pretense, skip neighborhood places that try to cultivate that ‘Old World’ charm but end up with geriatric stuffiness (Café Savigny, Paris Bar, etc.) in favor of Melrose’s open, modern ambience. Yes, it’s kind of touristy, but the food is fresh and tasty, the view of Olivaerplatz pleasant, the staff friendly, and the furnishings airy and welcoming. Alongside generously-portioned breakfasts, their wide menu offers staples from Caesar salad to chicken curry, and is better-priced than neighboring locales. Olivaerplatz 16, U-Bhf Adenauerplatz, Tel 8867 8222, www.melrose-berlin.com, daily 9:00-about 1:00, breakfast 5-10 euros, lunch 4-14 euros, Visa and Mastercard accepted
Neugrüns Köche
Inconspicuously located on a nasty stretch of Schönhauser Allee, it’s easy to miss, but don’t! This is P’Berg’s most gourmet establishment. Homemade everything (even the bread) and bold creativity (think cured lamb with fresh goat cheese, fennel and mango) are the pillars of the two daily-changing three- to four-course set menus that boast only high-quality ingredients (no preservatives) and happy meats (tender, amazing): one regional, the other ’southern’ inspired. Don’t agonise, just opt for either - it is all delicious. (There’s always a vegetarian alternative and even a vegan one - just call before!) Professional laid-back service and serene atmosphere make Neugrüns the perfect dinner experience in P’Berg. And new: outdoor seating! Schönhauser Allee 135a, U-Bhf Eberswalder Str., Tel 4401 2092, Mon-Sat 18:00-late, three-course menu from 28.50 euros, four courses from 32.50 euros, cash only
Oderquelle
Another classic of the Oderberger Strasse/Mauerpark Kiez, Oderquelle serves a selective daily menu of hearty, consistently well-made German dishes with few surprises and no deception, such as roast pork filet stuffed with baked plums, pine nuts and Emmental cheese, served with turnips and mashed potatoes. There’s always one vegetarian choice. Inside, the atmosphere is that of a woody, warm pub, and there’s plenty of outdoor
seating during the summer. Oderberger Str. 27, U-Bhf Eberswalder Str., Tel 4400 8080, www.oderquelle.de, daily 17:00-2:00 (kitchen open until midnight), main
courses 9-16 euros, EC accepted
Restaurant More
From the aperitif (chambord with green apple) to the simple yet intriguing main dishes (Asian-style tuna, springchicken in grape sauce) to the perfect crème brulée to the sleek red, lime green crystal interior to the wonderfully attentive service, More definitely offers much more than your usual dining experience. A creative changing weekly menu as well as
classic German fare makes it popular on the Schöneberg gay scene. Motzstr. 28, U-Bhf Nollendorfplatz, Tel 2363 5702, www.more-berlin.de, daily 9:00-24:00, main courses 6.50-21.50 euros, Mastercard, Visa, EC accepted
Schneeweiss
Schneeweiss lives up to its name as the white collars blend in to the stark white interior. In spite of its well-dressed patrons, the staff will make you feel at home with their very attentive and friendly service. Hearty food with a touch of flair, but nothing to scare away the unadventurous. Great wines and coffee follow but be sure to make a reservation as you’ll find it fills up quickly from 21:00. Certainly a touch of Charlottenburg class in the funkiest quarter of Berlin. Simplonstr. 16, S-Bhf Ostkreuz, Tel 2904 9704, Mon-Sun 10:00-1:00, main courses 12-16 euros, EC accepted
Schnitzelei
This off-the-beatenpath restaurant makes schnitzel in all its variations and for big appetites. Wiener Schnitzel XXXL! Röntgenstr. 7, Charlottenburg, U-Bhf Richard-Wagner-Platz, Tel 3470 2778, Mon-Fri 16:00-24:00, Sat-Sun 12:00-24:00, 15 euros, all credit cards except AmEx accepted
Schoenbrunn
You can find no setting more romantic, no service better, no food more delicious and no bill at the end of the night that says ‘I love you’ more than at Schoenbrunn. Sip your prosecco-soaked sorbet alongside the friendly sparrows and fine diners without feeling like a wanker. Schoenbrunn’s subtlety runs from its atmosphere through to its exquisitely delicate flavours. Volkspark Friedrichshain, tram M4 stop Am Friedrichshain, Tel 4679 3893, www.schoenbrunn.net, daily 10:00-1:00, main courses 11-22 euros, Visa, Mastercard, EC accepted
Schwarzes Café
While tumbleweeds blow across Charlottenburg’s deserted early-morning streets, this 24-hour neighborhood staple is busy serving everything from savory scrambled eggs to (more) cocktails to its sleepless patrons. The spaceship-cum-S&M-bar bathrooms help foster the transition from clubland to reality at 6:00 in the morning, while gracefully
decaying Altbau moldings and an open-air garden create coziness in the daytime. A wide menu, including sandwiches, breakfasts and weekly specials, has something for everyone. Kantstr. 148, S-Bhf Savignyplatz or U-Bhf Uhlandstr., Tel 313 8038, Wed- Mon 3:00-11:00, breakfast 5-10 euros, main courses 4-12 euros, cash only
Schwarzwaldstuben
A boar’s head looms over the bar, fake pine trees and fireplace warm the heart, and Rothaus Tannenzäpfle quenches the thirst. It’s all über-Süddeutsch, but there’s nothing tongue-in-cheek about the delicious food: Spätzle, crispy Flammkuchen, Maultaschen,
and Kaiserschmarrn with raspberries for dessert. Sit outside or while away a rainy evening with the mixed crowd of revelers and a Vesper (evening snack) and an Augustiner from the tap. Tucholskystr. 48, S-Bhf Oranienburger Str., Tel 2809 8084, www.schwarzwaldstuben-berlin.de, main courses 5.20-14.50 euros, EC accepted
Sophieneck
Near Hackescher Markt, this cosy corner pub is the perfect place to taste great homemade German food. Große Hamburger Str. 37, Mitte, Tel 030 283 4065. Daily noon-2am.www.sophieneck-berlin.de
Sowohlalsauch Bakery
Brunches are for the weekend, or late-rising childless freelancers with plenty of time on their hands. But what about the busy worker’s early treat on the way to the office? At Sowohlalsauch bakery shop (right next to the eponymous café), you’ll find the best pretzels, open sandwiches and butter croissants (also chocolate/nougat/marzipan) in the area and coffee to sit or to go, and all that starting at 6 am! It’s all freshly made on the spot and you can tell … A blessing for the busy expat sick of German bakeries’
disgruntling ‘goodies’! Kollwitzstr. 88, U-Bhf Eberswalder Str., Tel 442 9311, daily 6:00-20:00, croissants from 0.90 euro, Visa, Mastercard accepted (no EC)
St. Oberholz
The ultimate urban cyber-cafe, St. Oberholz is full of creative coffee addicts beavering away on the latest Apple iMac. If you want your iced coffee with half-fat soya milk (and
please no ice cream!), or a healthy slice of spinachand- bacon quiche to get your brain cells working, this is the best place to hang out for an afternoon. With plenty of workspace (on two floors) and wireless Internet, a wide selection of homemade cakes
and Milchfladen (filled foccacia bread) stuffed with fresh Boulette and rocket salad, you’re set up for a hard day’s work in sleek yet comfy surroundings./SR Rosenthaler Platz, Rosenthaler Str. 72a, Tel 24085586, Mon-Fri 8:00-24:00, Sat-Sun 9:00-24:00, coffee from 1.70 euros, lunch and snacks 1.90-4 euros, cash only
Storch
Propietor Herr Hauptvogel personally greets diners at this classy yet neighborly Alsatian Schöneberg mainstay. Groups of laughing friends and intense couples fill Storch every night to enjoy Alsatian classics like sauerkraut, sausages and Salzkartoffel, or dishes off the changing seasonal menu like celery soup with crackling Blutwurst, quail with truffle risotto, or duck breast with tender apple nuggets and delicately fried potatoes. A delicious experience. Wartburgstr. 54, U-Bhf Eisenacher Str., Tel 784 2059, Mon-Sat 18:00-1:00, kitchen until 23:30, main courses 16-24 euros, cash only
Weltrestaurant Markthalle
This convivial rustic Kreuzberg establishment offers a feast of German cuisine. The roast beef with baked potatoes or the roast pork with wine sauerkraut and breaded dumplings are impressive, but the culinary apex is the luscious, fried to crispness Schnitzel Wiener Art. Of the delicious deserts, pick the Kaiserschmarrn - thick pancakes chopped up and tossed with raisins and sugar, topped with homemade plum sauce. If you’re in a light mood don’t miss their salads./IV Pücklerstr. 34, U-Bhf Görlitzer Bhf, Tel 617 5502, www.weltrestaurant-markthalle.de, Mon-Sun 9:30-2:00 (or longer onweekends), main courses 10-15 euros, all credit cards except AmEx accepted
Zwiebelfisch
Comfortable but not divey, historic but not stuffy, Zwiebelfisch has been a neighborhood favorite since the 1970s, serving up brews between wooden, memorabilia-covered
walls until 6:00 in the morning. Plenty of outdoor seating and well-priced drinks should draw crowds all day, all night, all summer long; enjoy sausages, salads, and other typical Speisen until the kitchen closes at 3:00 am. Savignyplatz 7-8, S-Bhf Savignyplatz, Tel 312 7363, www.zwiebelfisch-berlin.de, daily 12:00-6:00, cash only




